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B Wing Pilot – A pilot, sometimes called a flyboy, directly controlled the operation of a vehicle while located within the same craft. A pilot was often assisted by a copilot, navigator, astromech droid, weapons officer, or other crew members. The term “pilot” was applied across vehicles used on land or in water, air, and/or space. The military designation for a pilot was PL-1. Whether this applied to all pilots or only starfighter pilots is unknown. On smaller ships, the word pilot and captain were interchangeable, but on larger vessels, the pilots were rarely the commanders of the vessels.
Chinese red (or similar medium or medium-dark red color) fligthsuit/coveralls with a folding collar.
Small rectangular closure tab at the center of the of the front of the collar, opening on the wearer’s left side.
A strip of material covering the chest zipper. This can either be the type of cover that is common on work coveralls or a separate piece of long material stitched onto the chest of the coveralls, the latter of which is more accurate.
Two long rectangular pockets on the upper legs in a similar style to the X-wing pilot leg pockets but are longer and start roughly at the top of the hips, complete with a rectangular closure flap that fastens down with Velcro. A similar style of pockets without flaps on the lower legs that end roughly three or four inches below the knee are optional.
Pen pocket on the left upper arm which consists of one large rectangular panel under a shorter, smaller rectangular panel. There is one more panel even shorter (but the same width as the second panel) over this one– three panels total. The smaller panels are divided into two rows of pen pockets by a stitch up the center of them. All sides of the panels have a double row of stitching. Thick reinforced stitching on the center small panel stitch line and the two lines of stitching on either side of the center stitch are optional. The pocket is rotated so that it sits at an angle turning toward the torso.
Rectangular shoulder panels that meet with the edge of the shoulder tuck of the coveralls or are sewn into the shoulder seam, and end roughly and inch away from the collar. The front edge of the panel meets roughly with the bottom of the collar tab, the back edge goes roughly four inches down the back of the shoulders.
Nomex flightsuit style angled chest pocket edges– the full pockets are not required but the pointed edges should be on the coveralls and be visible behind the flak vest. The outer edges of the pockets wrap around the torso and are sewn into the side seam. The bottom edges of the pockets either meet with the waist band or are sewn under it.
No commpad pocket, no pocket on the right arm. If the coveralls have rear pockets and/or leg tool pockets they must be removed. Hip pockets are acceptable if they can not be removed. Any opening on the sides of the suit must be sewn closed.
The flightsuit/coveralls must fit the wearer with the shoulder seams at the shoulders and the waist band at the waist.
A pair of tan gaiters made of a finely-textured material (canvas, duck, vinyl, leather, etc.). The bottom of the gaiters reach down to touch the top of the foot.
Two folded “ribs” sit vertically on the front of the gaiters with a small bit of space between them (no more than 1/4”).
One single seam up the back of the gaiters.
There is a 1” or 3/4” black plastic side-release buckle off to the outside edge of the two front folds, one on each gaiter. The buckles must be on the outside of the legs, not the inside. The buckles are attached by a small piece of black webbing and the end of the webbing should not extended past the lower edge of the buckle.
Strap of the same material as the gaiters that loops around from the front to the back, with the ends of the strap at the back of the gaiter. The ends can either be sewn into the back seam or can be layered over each other on top of the seam. The strap is not tight, it should be a little bit loose and hang slightly in front. There is a squared stitch at the center front of the gaiter. This can be used to fix the strap in place if desired.
The length of the gaiters should stretch roughly from the upper center of the calf down to the top of the foot, allowing it to crease and fold as the wearer walks.
Besides the black side-release buckles mentioned above there should be no other visible buckles or slides on the gaiters.
Black low heel mid-calf boots, such as engineer or Jack boots, that are leather or faux leather. Pull-on style boots are preferred but boots with a black zipper on the inside calf are allowed.
Any buckles or straps must be removed or hidden.
The belt is made of 2” white webbing, the same as the flak vest side straps.
A short section of 2” white webbing is layered over the front center of the belt, around the stomach, with two black triangle safety stitches that point inward.
Six flare loops made of 1” white webbing off to the wearer’s right side of the belt.
2” black plastic side-release buckle on the back of the belt.
The flak vest is made of a light or medium gray wool or heavy felt with fibers of various colors (such as a disaster relief blanket).
Front panel of the vest is somewhat squarish in shape with wings on either side that fit around the torso, a rounded scoop neck, two wide shoulder straps and an angled tab at the bottom.
Two ribs 1/4” to 1/2” below the neck.
Rectangular piece of white material at the bottom left hand side (wearer’s left) of the vest. A computer connector is attached to this piece of white material.
The back panel of the flak vest is also a rectangular shape that is slightly taller than it is wide. It has two shoulder straps that are thinner than those on the front panel and these are sewn over the front panel shoulder straps and end abruptly with no finished edge. The back panel has one thick stitch across the lower center of it, about and inch below the center line. A single stitch along all edges of the front and back of the vest.
Two inch (2”) white webbing side straps that are attached to the back panel, loop around the torso and fasten under the front panel of the flak vest. Any fasteners used must be hidden.
Female end of two one inch (1”) black plastic side-release buckles on the front of the vest roughly a half inch to an inch below the edge of the back panel shoulder steams. The buckles are fastened in place by a strip of black 1” webbing or a smooth hard black plastic or metal clip. If webbing is used the end of the webbing goes behind the hanging buckle.
The vest must properly fit the wearer. As such some dimensions may need to be altered for a better fit.
Flak Vest Greeblies:
There are three flak vest greeblies. One long computer connector is attached to the white material patch on the flak vest mentioned above, the other two greeblies are attached to the right side of the white patch.
The connector on the white patch is a D-subminiature plug with a silver metal base, red, blue, black or white plastic plug and gold or silver prongs or an Amphenol 26-4200-32S with a silver metal base, blue plastic casing and flat gold connectors.
1” BENDIX bulkhead connector or replica or 1” Amphenol MIL plug or replica roughly centered. (If using replicas, the Amphenol plug should be painted gray, the inner circle blue and the prongs gold or silver. A replica BENDIX should be painted silver, aluminum or stainless steel with a black inner circle and gold or silver prongs, if prongs are present).
Rectangular silver hardware piece with computer parts or a squared green motherboard piece with computer parts (i.e. diodes, transistors, chips, etc.) off to the right of the plug, but it does not sit all the way to the far edge of the vest.
An accurately-sized and shaped chestbox made of a hard material and is 9” by 9” from the highest point to the lowest point and side to side. The chestbox can be styled in either of the styles listed [LINK to be added].
Straps of 1” black webbing attached to the back of the chestbox or fit into strap slots on the back of the chestbox. The end of the straps have the male end of 1” black plastic side-release buckles (the other end of which are attached to the flak vest).
Hose covered in wrinkled white material on the wearer’s left side of the chestbox. The hose should hang to roughly the lower calf. The other end of the hose is tucked up to the side under the front of the flak vest or under the back panel of the vest.
The chestbox clips onto the flak vest via the side-release buckles.
The chestbox can either be straight-edged or the back edge can be slightly rounded inward, the bottom edge slant down slightly and be deeper than the top edge and the bottom can rounds around the stomach.
The ejection harness is made of 2” white webbing, the same as the flak vest side straps and the belt. The length of webbing is folded in half and this folded center point is attached onto the bottom tab of the flak vest with two rows of gray or black stitches. The ends of the harness hang down in front of the legs and the ends loop around the back of the legs and then the ends are tucked up behind flat silver metal slide (one slide on each strap).
A pair of black gauntlet gloves with flared cuffs. Gloves must be leather or faux leather, rubber or cloth gloves are not acceptable.
No visible straps, clasps, buckles or fasteners on the gloves.
FORMAL REQUIREMENTS – YOU MUST HAVE ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
2. X-wing pilot helmet with appropriate Star Wars-style decoration (in place of the B-wing pilot helmet).
3. AN-H-15 pilot cap or replica made of tan material and black, brown, red-brown or tan leather/faux leather straps, chin strap and cheeks and metal snaps on the cheek pieces. The ear discs are black and can be made of a hard material, but a soft material (such as foam covered in black vinyl) may be preferred if wearing with a B-wing pilot helmet. Can be worn with or without the B-wing pilot helmet.
4. Silver flares on belt, either flat-tipped or with smooth beveled edges. Up to six flares can be worn, but a minimum of two.
5. Black rectangular belt box that is made out of a hard material. There is a smaller box on the front of the larger belt box, and there are some details on the front of the smaller box (two round details on the upper left-hand side and lower left-hand side and one clock-like design on the lower right-hand side). The top of the small box also has a black computer plug. On the side of the larger box a white rectangle is painted on (a sticker or decal is also acceptable). The belt box clips onto the belt on the front left-hand side.
The chestbox is painted a light cool silver/light silver-blue. There is a light blue stripe on the top side of the chestbox only on the center portion. Two dark gray rectangle marks near the top on the wearer’s right side are optional. A “B” decal sits within the blue top stripe. The “B” is blue with a darker blue outline and a white interior. The trench is flat black, charcoal gray or wrought iron. A flat-faced or domed white knob with black edging in the large upper circle cut on the chestbox. In the small circular indentations next to the knob greeblie are two greeblies. In the top hole is a round black females six- or seven-pin Din audio plug, the bottom hole has a gunmetal gray piece with three small vertical pipes. The rectangular cut on the other side of the knob greeblie is painted a dark crimson. On the wearer’s lower right side of the chestbox is a gray rectangle with two smaller dark blue rectangles inside of it. A guitar potentiometers sits below the gray rectangle. A three-core cable with black casing is attached to the prongs on the guitar pot, hangs down the front of the chestbox and loops up around the back. Gray or black AMP connector on the front of the chestbox on the wearer’s left side below the rectangular cut painted crimson mentioned above. Just below the AMP connector is a thin dark red pinstripe. A greeblie with diodes and a black computer piece (or a replica) in the small D-shaped cut below the beveled front edge of the chestbox. Below the D-shaped cut is a small rectangular frame painted the same base color as the chestbox. A bright red toggle flip switch sits inside of the frame. A black pinstripe outlines the bottom and sides of the frame mentioned above and cuts horizontally across the chestbox. A squared U-shaped pinstripe is on the wearer’s right side of the chestbox and extended to the bottom edge. Below the pinstripe at the wearer’s left, across from the hose connection, is a black circular greeblie. In the rectangular indentation in the top of the trench is an OMRON MY4z relay or a similar relay or replica. It should have “OMRON” written vertically on the front of the greeblie in black sitting to the side. Note: Alternatively, there can be a small black rectangular greeblie where the relay would be, or no greeblie there at all, with a long rectangular black greeblie below the indentation with a thin arm at the bottom and two pipes that slant downwards at roughly 60 degrees. ONLY IF A RELAY IS USED: Below the relay are three small black greeblies, two are rectangular in shape and are lined up vertically, the other is cone-shaped and sits to the side of the bottommost greeblie. A thin piece of silver wire connects the cone-shaped greeblie to the other two; one wire from the side, the other L-shaped and attached to the bottom. A greeblie in the side cut by the panel line at the wearer’s right, the greeblie consists of an L-shaped metallic green motherboard piece, a single diode and a silver square. Alternatively, a black plastic cradle piece with four or five diodes maybe used instead. Replicas are also acceptable. The hose connects to the chestbox with no visible connection point, the cloth hose cover meets with the surface of the chestbox. At where the hose meets the chestbox there is a thin black circular outline.
The chestbox is painted in a tan color with gray edges that go half way up all of the sides. The trench is painted flat black, charcoal gray or wrought iron. A “B” decal at the very top of the chestbox. The “B” is blue with a darker blue outline and a white interior. A flat-faced white knob greeblie with black edging in the large circular cut on the front of the chestbox. In the two circular indentations next to the knob greeblie are two small black bullet-shaped greeblies, one in each indentation. The rectangular cut on the other side of the knob is painted dark gray. On the front lower side at the wearer’s right is a gray rectangle. In the cut along the panel line next to the gray rectangle is a small rectangular black greeblie with a chrome or very shiny silver dome. Below the gray rectangle is a rectangular black greebie with a series of vertical fins to the right side of it. The front left side of the greeblie is a circular socket with two black cords fit into it. The cords twist once and hang down the front of the chestbox and loop up in the back. On the end of the cords that fit into the socket, the ends should be wrapped in white electrical tape. In the D-shaped cut near the center of the wearer’s left side of the chestbox is a small rectangular black or dark gray greeblie with three horizontal cylinders on the surface. At the front lower side of the wearer’s left there is a U-shaped gray pinstripe that extended to the bottom. Near the top of the U-shape is a thick black stripe, below this stripe is another gray pinstripe line. Below the bottommost horizontal pinstripe are two rectangular marks, both the same size and shape but different colors. The topmost mark is red, the bottommost mark is orange. Below the orange mark is a rectangular black greeblie that sits vertically. There is a pill-shaped piece on the front of the greeblie. At the top right side of the greeblie a single black cord comes out, hangs down the front of the chestbox and loops up the back. In the rectangular indentation near the top of the trench is a short relay with no writing on the top surface. Below the relay are two small black greeblies. One is a cone shape on a circular bar, the other is a flat-topped dome with four pillars at its sides on a cross-shaped base. The hose connects to the chestbox with a tapered socket around the connection point, the socket is painted the same tan base color as the chestbox.
The chestbox is painted a very light gray with a medium gray stripe on the right and left sides. Within these stripes at the top are two rectangular dark gray marks. A “B” decal on the top is optional. If there is a decal, the “B” should be blue with a darker blue outline and a white interior. In the large circular cut on the front of the chestbox is a dome-shaped white knob with black edging. In the small circular indentations next to the knob greeblie are two small greeblies, both identical, one in each indentation. The greeblies are figure-eight shaped on an oval base and are black in color. Alternatively, the bottommost indentation can be left empty. The rectangular cut on the other side of the knob greeblie is painted crimson. A medium gray rectangle painted on the lower front side at the wearer’s right. Note that the gray for this rectangle is different from the medium gray stripes on the sides mentioned above. Below the gray rectangle is a rectangular black greeblie with a series of thin fins to the wearer’s right side. At the bottom corner of the wearer’s left side of the greeblie is a circular protrusion and two black cords fit inside. Wrapping the ends of the cords in white electrical tape is optional. The two cords hang down the front of the chestbox and then loop up around the back. In the D-shaped cut in near the center of the wearer’s left side of the chestbox there is a black plastic cradle greeblie with four or five tan diodes. Below the D-shaped cut is a boxy U-shaped light gray pinstripe that reaches down to the bottom edge of the chestbox. Below the top edge of the pinstripe box is a thick black stripe. Below this black stripe is another medium gray pinstripe. At the right edge of the vertical pinstripe, below the second horizontal pinstripe, there are two colored rectangles, both the same size and shape but different colors. The top rectangle is orange and the bottom rectangle is red. Below the two small rectangle marks is another greeblie, either a round black greeblie or a flat rectangular black greeblie that sits vertically with or without a pill-shaped piece on the front. A cord coming from the rectangular greeblie at the corner closest to the trench is optional. In the open cut at the wearer’s left side along the panel line is a flat black rectangular greeblie with five thin tan diodes and one black diode below them. There is a small bit of empty space above the first tan diode. At the top front of the trench there is a long black greeblie that is roughly three inches long. The greeblie has three or four pieces of computer parts and a screw hole (but no screw) at each of the four corners. The entire greeblie is painted black. The hose connects to the chestbox with a tapered socket around the connection point, the socket is painted the same light gray base color as the chestbox.
Standard written by Author: Blue Banshee Leader (Alex Buirch)
Standard reviewed by the Costume Standards Committee 9 August 2016
PLEASE NOTE: The costume standards are a guide, yet are not an all inclusive outline of required elements. The judges will be looking for quality of workmanship, accurate execution and use of materials in addition to these general standards check lists. If you have a question about fabrics, colours, and parts choices for your build please contact the Detachment Officer for your category about parts/materials you are considering before you start your build, or post a ‘Work in Progress’ (WIP) thread on the forum. (LCJ listing here)